Windshield Repair 201 - Making the Repair
Learn how to repair windshields with our free course on Windshield Repair. Know which Windshield Repair Kits are available and which kits fit your repair needs.
Be informed by seeing a comparison of the kits and processes before
you begin, and be able to determine whether a windshield can be repaired
or needs to be replaced.
These kits are used to repair bullseye, spider web, star, chip, and combination windshield
damage. Some kits can repair cracks. See kit comparison chart
for specifics.
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Making the Repair:
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Install Resin Applicator in Base
Insert the hollow Resin Applicator tube into the base and screw the threaded
end clockwise until it just reaches the windshield glass. Check alignment
over the center of damage by viewing the Rosin Applicator from inside
the vehicle. Make sure the rubber tip is centered over the damage, and
if necessary, adjust the device center by sliding the suction cups. Once
centered, rotate the resin applicator clockwise to flatten the center
lip against the glass but not too tight. It is important that you don't
get this overly tight because it may close or tighten the cracks and make
it difficult to get the resin to flow into the cracks and damaged area.
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Deposit Resin in Applicator
To open resin container; remove cap from the container, and away from
painted surfaces carefully cut off approximately 1/8 inch or less of the
tube tip using the enclosed razor blade or a pair of scissors. Cut off
only enough of the thin end of the tip of the resin container to open
it.
Deposit 3-6 drops of the UV repair resin (depending on the size of the
damage) into the resin Applicator mounted on the windshield. Watch to
see if any of the resin leaks from the bottom of the resin Applicator
tip. If it does slowly lightly turn the resin Applicator clockwise, just
slightly more than enough to stop the leak.
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Apply Pressure to the Resin
Insert the resin driver into the Resin Applicator and screw it clockwise
into the resin applicator and tighten it until the driver tip is almost
screwed all the way in. This will press the tip of the resin driver into
the rubber tip of the applicator which will begin to open the tip up to
the width of the drivers tip. Check from inside the vehicle to see that
the lips of the rubber seal have opened up wider. This will put the resin
under pressure and drive the resin into the break in the glass. Allow
the resin time to flow into the break, usually about 4-6 minutes depending
on the size of the damaged area. If the resin hasn't flowed all the way
into cracks and the glass is on the cool side, you can lower the viscosity
of the resin by warming the glass with a hair dryer or hot air gun. Do
not use excessive heat as this could cause the glass to crack further.
You should not warm the glass above 85 degrees Fahrenheit. While you
wait for the resin to be wicked into the cracks, you should make 1/8 to
1/4 turns on the resin driver every couple of minutes to reapply pressure to the rosin.
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Completing Repair Cycle
After 5 or 6 minutes have passed with the resin under pressure, it is
time to remove the resin driver from the resin applicator by unscrewing
it, turning counter clockwise, which will release any air trapped in the
resin application.
Re-insert the resin driver and screw down again to displace any air remaining
in the break.
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Checking Repair
To determine if enough resin has been absorbed into the break to displace
all of the air in the cracks, look at the cracks / glass damage from a
45 degree angle from each side of the crack or damaged points. In the
case of chips or bull's eyes, also examine the glass from inside the vehicle
directly behind the damaged area. If any air cavities remain in the damaged
area, they will appear as dark green or black areas in the glass. Good
clean repairs should not have any areas that are dark or have mirror like
reflective regions and the cracks and damage should be very transparent
from all angles.
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